Showing posts with label Journalism. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Journalism. Show all posts

Thursday, April 21, 2011

The Documentary And A Dream SS11

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As previously noted, J. LIndeberg's The Documentary and A Dream biannual book was borne out of the desire to tell the complete story of the brand and share their thoughts and values on a level beyond commercial aspects of marketing principles. Each season creatives from various disciplines are invited to freely interpret the seasonal collection and capture a particular theme within the spirit of J. Lindeberg. Now in its fourth season, the SS11 edition explores the passion to master a craft, be it creating an exquisitely cut suit, building the ultimate surfboard or focusing to become the number one athlete.

The talented group of photographers, artists, writers, illustrators and stylists that joined Art Director  Jörgen Ringstrand for this season include Olivier Zahhm, Andreas Sjödin, Julia and Hannes Hetta, Skye Parrot, Carl-Johan Paulin and Andreas Carlsbecker to name but a few. On the day of its release and before J. Lindeberg's London showroom opened its doors for a celebratory launch, we caught up with Jörgen Ringstrand to talk about the inception and continued evolution of this inspiring read...

SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind launching The Documentary and A Dream?
Jörgen Ringstrand: I work with J.Lindeberg and also run my creative agency R67Kreative, it was a fantastic moment when together with the Global Brand Director at J.Lindeberg, Stefan Engström ,we decided to start the process of creating the Biannual Book. When we started we did not know where we were heading, both Stefan and I like to work very fast and are passionate about what we do. There were no customers surveys or meetings with marketing departments, we both love books that are made with passion, love, great printing, great binding and great contributors. We just wanted to do something that reflects our minds and the world of J.Lindeberg.

SS: For me, it is a publication which weaves together people, imagery, history, newness and takes great pleasure in information exchange and learning. What does The Documentary and A Dream mean to J Lindeberg and to you personally?
Jörgen Ringstrand: For me it’s a fantastic way of together, with Stefan Engström at J.Lindeberg, to create a book with people and thoughts that inspire us. Both of us love books and with the Biannual Book we also produce it with highest quality and craftsmanship. All the bookbinding is made by hand, it’s a privilege in this time to do a book like this, especially with people focusing online or digitally. For J.Lindeberg it is a way of doing something that shows the world around the brand. The book is not made with any business or commercial goals in mind but made from a strong interest of creating a long lasting high quality product, much like the J.Lindeberg clothes.

SS: Each issue is concentrated around one key idea – a timeless theme that in various ways touches all those working in the creative fields regardless of age, cultural background or social status. This latest issue explores the world of craftsmanship and you shine the spotlight on varied individuals from an aged surfer to a jazz musician, a Russian poet to a tailor. What does the word craftsmanship mean to you?
Jörgen Ringstrand: It is someone who lives through their work.

SS: Could you talk us through a few of your favourite features within the issue and the stories behind them?
Jörgen Ringstrand: All are my favourite, I have put a lot of effort into them all for them to become true.

SS: Is there anything that you are particularly pleased with or excited to show?
Jörgen Ringstrand: I think it’s nice to have Olivier on board and he will also contribute on the next with a great feature we are working on right now.

SS: The contributors list is an impressive one, Olivier Zahm, Andreas Sjödin, Julia Hetta to name but a few. How do you source people to become involved in the project? What is the dynamic of the working relationship with them?
Jörgen Ringstrand:Most of the people I have followed for sometime time and seen their work and way of visualizing things. I contact then with some ideas and then we together we work out the final story. Most of the work we do is over emails which I love. I love to have that exchange of ideas and thoughts before we meet in person.

SS: In terms of contributors, is there anyone in particular that you'd like to work with the future?
Jörgen Ringstrand: I don’t really plan like that, I haven’t got anyone in mind that I am trying to catch. It is something that happens more organically

SS: Finally, how would you like to see The Documentary and a dream evolve over the coming seasons?
Jörgen Ringstrand: I would like it to be a book which reflects the mood and minds of the people involved. A book that gives creative freedom to the contributors in a large sized format, made with passion and love, to be able show their work in a great context.
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Now that the hangover sets in and memories of toasting the book thump around my brain, I'm fully aware that the book has now been released. This fourth edition is now available to view at J. Lindeberg stores and online. The narrative it weaves is one that expands way beyond the realms of the standard look book and runway views we are all accustomed to seeing. Throughout the book you are treated to inspiring art works, collages, interviews and an array of wonderful imagery. However, before you go and thumb through it I'd like to share a few of my favourite pages with you.  

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All book images courtesy of J. Lindeberg.

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Collections: Jason Dike's Coats

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Everyone's obsessed with something and our Collections series highlight a few of our favourites. Today, we explore Jason Dike's coat addiction. Now, Jason is a stylish chap who tends to avoid the limelight, preferring instead to focus on unearthing well crafted menswear labels from across the globe or featuring the latest product releases from our favourite brands for Selectism, Gentleman's Corner and Esquire. Whenever we see him around town, we never fail to admire his coat so we invited ourselves around to Casa de Menswear (Jason shares a flat with Daniel Jenkins) to rummage through his collection. Below is an introduction from the man himself followed by plenty of coat shots and we take a closer look at a few of his favourites...


"Before I was asked to take part in this post I didn't think I had that many coats. In fact, up until I was in conversation with someone who was lamenting their coat addiction (they had 12, at that point I had 15 and thought that wasn't enough) that I realised it. I'm now at 17 (and that's not counting the coats in storage) and I still think that isn't enough. What I like about coats is that they're the easiest way to change an outfit, put on a field blazer and you're instantly sharper, put on a varsity jacket and you're instantly sporty. I could prattle on, but put it this way: I'm a lazy dresser who prefers putting his clothes on and forgetting about them, so a good coat is an essential."

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Jason's collection currently stands at seventeen coats and he still wants more! We decided to cover his bed with a handful at a time before taking a few detail shots...

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Now, having offered a cross section of his collection, we could not resist taking a look at how he wears a few of his favourites and to learn the stories behind them. What follows are his descriptions of seven of his well loved treasures...
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The one that makes an impression

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Stutterheim coat, SNS Herning Cardigan, vintage shirt, APC Jeans

I've needed a raincoat for the longest time, so when the opportunity came to get this Stutterheim coat I couldn't turn it down. It's extremely white, but I like that about it. And it's properly waterproof so I can just throw this on when it starts chucking it down. I didn't know it, but it looks like I've always wanted to subconsciously look like a stylish lab technician.
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The one that's a trusted favourite

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Lou Dalton Coat, COS Jumper, vintage shirt, APC Jeans

I got this a while back after raving about it in Selectism (this will be a recurring theme in this post) and deciding I needed one for myself. When I first got I wore it just about every day and I liked when people's expressions went from 'what's that coat, it's amazing!' to 'oh god he's wearing that coat again' after seeing me a few times in a row. I'm also pretty sure Lou Dalton did a double take of me when she saw me wearing it one time, which must be a weird moment for designers. It's one of my favourites, mainly because I can wear it with several things in my wardrobe with little thought (like I said, I'm a lazy dresser).
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The one that's worn all the time

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APC Parka, Levi's Vintage denim jacket. COS Jumper, vintage shirt, Norsea Denim

Remember what I said about recurring themes? I also raved about this coat on Selectism and promptly forgot about it. Then sales season came around and I found this one in Liberty for an absolutely ridiculous price. And, seeing as there was nearly a full rack of them, I'm sure no one loved the colour purple as much as I do. Their loss, I got this for a steal and haven't looked back since. It's great for wearing in the spring with just a shirt and good enough to wear with multiple layers like I'm doing in this shot.


As for the denim jacket, I've wanted a well worn one for a while. I've been searching but the colour's usually a bit too dark for my liking, so I gave them a miss. It took a while but I finally got one from Beyond Retro when I bumped into Jason Jules and he pointed out some big E numbers. I'm not gonna turn down sage advice, so I bought one of them.
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The one that helps me look a bit sharp

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Casely-Hayford for John Lewis Field Blazer, Uniqlo white oxford, COS chunky knit, APC denim


Despite having umpteen coats, to date I only have one blazer, a corduroy number that needs tailoring. Luckily I managed to get hold of this CH for JL number and it's now the easiest (and only) way for me to look sharp. The smart blazer is such an exact science that I've been putting it off until I can really afford it but this fits supremely well. It leaves just the right amount of cuff, fits well on the shoulders and isn't restrictive when buttoned up.
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The one that's very, very, very warm

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And-I Peacoat, Howlin for Morrison Fair Isle jumper, White Uniqlo shirt, APC Denim

Writing for the outlets I do means that I use terms like 'essential' far more than needed. But a good warm winter coat is an essential, or staple if you wanna rack up the fashion cliches. This one's from And-I and it's ridiculously warm - I don't think I can overstate this. I can only wear it from late November to January (and I'll still sweat on the underground) and the rest of the time it lays in hibernation. The pocket in the back and random button up top is what makes this special.
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The newest one

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Vintage coat, Howlin by Morrison fair isle jumper, White Uniqlo shirt, APC denim

This is my newest purchase and I like it because I don't know what it is. It looks like it started life as a bomber and someone decided to extend it into a longish coat with a shawl collar and ribbed cuffs. Whatever it is, it looks nice and fit me straight off the rack. I just have to work on getting rid of the vintage funk smell and it'll be good to go.
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Monday, March 7, 2011

Style Stalking... Dal Chodha

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Back in November, we were fortunate enough to talk through b magazine with both of the creative minds behind it. Created by b clothing’s Creative Director Jason Hughes and Editor Dal Chodha, the bi annual publication eloquently exposes the wider b Store ethos. Editorially driven, it looks at creatives from a wonderfully unique angle. The world it explores means that this is a publication that is nigh on impossible to put down. Since this initial meeting, we have seen Dal at various fashion shindigs and have always noted how well dressed he is. 

With this in mind we just could not resist style stalking him and thanks to the photography of Kasia Bobula we can. Here, we follow the Central Saint Martins graduate as he lives and works in London as a writer, editor and consultant. No doubt his five day style diary will brighten up your week...
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Day One: Meeting at b Store

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Beanie hat by John Smedley
Wool blazer by Simeon Farrar
Jumper with Swarovski crystal detail by Satyenkumar
Vintage 501 jeans by Levi’s
Shoes by Obedient Sons
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Day Two: Home work

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Jumper by Dries Van Noten
‘Genie’ sweatpants by American Apparel
Velvet slippers by Emma Hope
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Day Three: Domestic miss

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Beanie hat by Missoni
Jumper bought in charity shop
Trousers by James Long
Slippers by Obedient Sons
Document wallet by Comme des Garçons
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Day Four: Buying books at Skoob

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Beanie hat by Dries Van Noten
Jacket by Ann-Sofie Back
Cotton shirt by Marni
Jeans by Alexander McQueen
Boots by Marni
Tote bag by Simeon Farrar
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Day Five: London Fashion Week

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Beanie Hat by Missoni
Button-down jumper by b Store
Trousers by b Store
Wool blazer by Simeon Farrar
Velvet slippers by Emma Hope
Tote bag by Julie Verhoeven for Mulberry

Photography by Kasia Bobula
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Sunday, March 6, 2011

Details: Backing the Backpack

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Jason Dike and his canvas and leather backpack by Jas MB. Worn here, with his recently GQ featured, quilted field blazer by Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis

Sunday Morning Companions

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This scene is pretty close to my perfect Sunday morning. A quick stroll to the shops in search of a fresh out of the oven almond croissant to accompany a freshly brewed post of coffee and a hot off the press men's magazine. A great deal has been said on the recently launched quarterly publication, Port, so at this point I just want to enjoy the read. I hope you have rubbed the sleep from your eyes and are enjoying this Sunday morning as much as I am.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Weekend Reading Tip: 032c


Having complained that my blog reader had been inundated with what appeared to be two cloned posts the twentieth issue of 032c is the perfect antidote. Now, it is time to step away from the seemingly ever present and comforting glow of the computer screen and instead focus my gaze on the two hundred and sixty four pages. What began as a DIY, experiment exploring the possibilities of print has grown in to an archetypal magazine that effortlessly fuses art, culture and fashion in a lip smackingly good cocktail. The intelligence and freshness of its content is always something to savour and this issue is thankfully no different. Highlights include (deep breath) a forty page dossier on Rei Kawakubo, a closer look at Acy'teryx's efforts of pushing performance wear forward with its new line Veilance, Rem Koolhaas dicsussing Moscow's new Strelka Institute, David Simon talks anger and the American city while 032c’s latest Select presents the best of this season’s books, products, and ideas.

The twentieth issue of 032c offers welcome relief to the printed culture ennui that most of us have felt in recent years. It is the very antithesis of the quick flick through before throwaway publications that are struggling on the newstands. Now, it is time for another cup of tea and read.

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Preview of b three

As readers of this blog you should all know by now that London’s b store has long been a mecca for contemporary design. Whilst nurturing some of the best menswear design talent in the capital and beyond, b store have been merging art, fashion and design seamlessly for a number of years now. With each visit to the Savile Row institution, there is the chance to discover a new designer, an exhibition, a magazine or even just a moment when you talk to them and leave with something new. You can always expect to be surprised when you visit the store. Though undeniably a stylish haunt, it has always been more than just a physical space and has certainly offered more than mere fashion. It was therefore, a natural evolution of the brand to venture in to print and thankfully b magazine reflects the energy of the brand beautifully. We have been fans the moment our eager hands grasped the first issue back in September 2009. Created by b clothing’s Creative Director Jason Hughes and Editor Dal Chodha, the magazine exposes the wider b Store ethos; passion in design and integrity in individuality with a knowing nod to more sartorial affairs.

It sells ideas and it sells information. Editorially driven, b magazine looks at creatives from a wonderfully unique angle. The world it weaves through and explores means that this is a publication that is nigh on impossible to put down. It concerns itself with what they are reading, rather than what they are wearing and worries more about familiarity than fantasy. To mark the imminent release of the issue three (Monday 8th November) which includes insightful pieces on BLESS and Stephan Schneider, we caught up with both of its creators to discuss the issue over a cup of coffee and a cinnamon bun. What follows is our meandering conversation and a sneak peek inside the issue...

The cover of issue three.

SS: The magazine feels like a natural evolution of the b brand on to printed paper as it exposes the wider b-Store ethos. What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind b magazine?
Jason Hughes: I've been working with both Matthew (Murphy) and Kirk (Beattie) from the very first collection and even before that point I worked with Carola Euler who was stocked at the store, so I've known the store and the guys for some time now. We had a very casual conversation about the magazine with them, Dal and myself were clear that there were certain things that we wanted to do and certain things that we didn't want to do. Primarily, we did not want it to be another fashion title because we both felt that there already were enough titles out there, some of which were doing it very well, some doing it not so well. It was very important to us that we were crating a magazine that came from an alternative point of view to anything already out there. We talked to Matt and Kirk about the store; the designers they stocked, the people who shop there or those involved in the store in some way, be that artists who have shown in store or creatives who they have collaborated with in some way and at this point we realised that this was more than a lifestyle. We described it as a world, the bstore world. This notion was of the main catalysts for the magazine. We were excited by how vibrant the b world was, not just in terms of the label or the clothes but the people which inhabited it. More than that though, this pool was a massive source of content for us.


SS: By the very nature of the store, the magazine is much more than an in store publication...
Dal Chodha: In a way it felt like an untapped pool of content. Such amazing people that come in either to shop or interact with it in some capacity.
Jason Hughes: Hopefully the magazine reflects the energy of the store. You can always expect to be surprised when you visit the store, there is going to a new designers, exhibition, magazine in the book corner or even just a moment when you talk to them. The store has always been about the new and I've always admired it for that. Matt and Kirk have always put themselves out there to discover a new designer and to support them, some of whom they have continued to support and some might have fallen off but they've always had a strong relationship with them and grown with them. I've always admired their ability to discover and nurture and this certainly fed in to the publication. At no point did we want this to be an in store magazine but rather, we have always wanted to create a lifestyle publication. Welcome to our world, it is an exciting place.

Unclassified. Welcome to the world of BLESS. Words by Ben Purdue, photography by Franck Sauvaire with Jane Howard as fashion editor.

SS: What was the starting point for the third issue? How did it evolve?
Dal Chodha: It is important for us to offer something that our readers cannot get anywhere else. The research aspect for each issue is the hardest part because we discuss topics that you can only know if you have a personal relationship with the people involved. For example, with regard to the collectors feature in this issue there is no way that your average pr would have that type of information. There is a natural progression from the last issue. We discussed the last issue and ideas on where we would like to take it, areas that we'd like to explore and expand on and this is particularly true within the articles.
Jason Hughes: We tend to have a lot of ideas and there is only a certain you can actually cover in one issue without it becoming repetitive.
Dal Chodha: We are friends as well, so outside of the magazine we share a great deal. We both have folders on our desktops as all of us do of ideas that have captured our imagination so when we meet we both discuss what we have found. For me, my main focus in the features is to talk about people that haven't been exposed in the way they deserve.

B for Baracuta. The SS11 collaboration is previewed. Words by Dal Chodha, Photography by Laurence Ellis with Jason Hughes as Fashion Editor.

SS: I have really enjoyed the recent designer features, Chrishophe Lemaire in the last issue and now Stephan Schneider. These are names people might be familiar with but your features bring them to life. I have to confess that I knew very little about Christophe before his stunning AW09 collection, that collection really made me take notice of his work. So your feature was extremely well timed...
Dal Chodha: Exactly, we've taken this ethos from bstore really. To highlight brands that people in the know, know about but our job is to promote them in a way that is fitting of their talents. We want to take them and elevate them as much as we can. Christophe's work for example is amazing but not enough people know about him or his work.

Stephan Schneider. In conversation with. Words by Dal Chodha and photography by Stefan Heinrichs.

SS: I found it interesting to observe the knock on effect of your feature on Christophe Lemaire. Quite a few publications and websites featured him following your issue launch. He was now on the radar, of course his appointment of Hermes magnified this even further...
Jason Hughes: The Hermes appointment was amazing timing really. We knew nothing about it at the time, neither did Matt.
Dal: It was announced three weeks after I met him in Paris. Of course he would have known but it wasn't mentioned during the course of our discussion.
Jason Hughes: It was really interesting when Tim featured him on style.com and did a review of the show. I think that was partly because of the last issue as well. For us, it felt like the right time to introduce him to a wider circle.
Dal: Both Christophe and Stephan have been in the industry for many, many years and that for us, is an important aspect of fashion. It is, after all a business as well as being inspirational. These guys have built solid foundations for selling clothes.
Jason Hughes: The designers that we feature and shoot are ones that tend not to tackle ephemeral trends and both Christophe and Stephan have certainly shied away from this aspect of fashion. They are much more interested in creating a highly distinct style and in cultivating collection upon collection.

The Collectors. b meets four collectors and discovers the UK's largest collection of vintage Hawaiian ukuleles along the way. Words by Dal Chodha and photography by Clare Shilland.

SS: Within the issue you introduce four collectors and their carefully curated obsessions, including Fraser Moss' vinyl and Katie Hillier's Tim Burton toys. Are either of you collectors?
Jason Hughes: Only obvious things but nothing that specific.
Dal Chodha: Me neither but I think that is what attracted us to this feature even more. It really was a nightmare to research because people kept coming back with "I collect magazines and these inspire my collection' but we wanted to go deeper and unearth a selection of unusual collections.
Jason Hughes: I've always been interested in people that have obsessions. The feature actually began when we had a discussion about fans, from fans of bands to Japanese girls who hoard Chanel bags, this then evolved in to people who obsessively collect things. it is amazing to love something so much. I think Katie's obsession with Tim Burton toys is the most fascinating, she even talks about how the toys inspire her and when she is stuck for a colour palette she goes to her toys, for me that is just genius.
Dal Chodha: These types of features are always so intimate and enjoyable to work on. Clare (Shilland) and I went to each of their houses and you can't help but become enamored with their collections. These people tend not to be asked about these passions.
Jason Hughes: I've always liked the feeling of when you think you know somebody but then discover what is behind that. It is always very interesting, what is behind this hardcore fashion person.

Furniture. Meet the future of furniture design. Words by Lewis Chong and photography by Retts Wood.

SS: Looking back over the issue now, is the collectors feature your highlight?
Jason Hughes: Actually, I really enjoyed the furniture article. For both of us it is a real highlight of the issue and it was borne out of a conversation with Matt, both of us are interested in furniture design, and we began this quest to find the new furniture designers. It was a lengthy process that went on for months but we are so pleased with the results.

In A Lonely Place. Photography by Nicholai Fischer with Jason Hughes as Fashion Editor.

SS: Despite my obvious love of digital media, I have enjoyed a love affair with printed fashion journalism for many years. What were the magazines that you just had to buy each month, quarterly or biannually? Are there any today that still excite and inspire you?
Jason Hughes: Funnily enough, if I were to be obsessive about anything it would be with magazines. I grew up in the 90s idolising magazines like iD and The Face. I'm from a small village in Wales and these magazines acted as escapism but they also informed me and opened my eyes to lots of things. Some of that has had a lasting legacy on me. There was a point in time when they were barometeres of style but times have changed. Now, I like lots of smaller, independent magazines, similar to those that Matt likes actually. The ones that have a distinct personality and are quite niche, obsessive about their subject matter. Aparamento is a great example, so inspiring. The layout is interesting, the people thy feature and their whole perspective of the home is very interesting. It is an antidote to Homes & Garden. I also love 032c, it is one of the only magazines that has been able to successfully merge disciplines of art, design and fashion.
Dal Chodha: I have quite a romantic vision of magazines. I like having to sit and stop and taking time out and magazines should slow people down. I'm not particularly loyal to any title.
Jason Hughes: It is important for me that there is something to read in the magazine, it isn't just a . There should be well written features that are informative and exciting to read. There has to be a balance.

All Those Yester Days. Photography by Willem Jaspert and Sam Ranger as Fashion Editor.


SS: There is certainly that balance in b. How do you see the publication developing in the issues ahead?
Dal Chodha: Thank you. We are really pleased with the balance and we will continue along the same path in future issues. We always have so many feature ideas but for us it important not to overload the reader with information. A magazine should be able to be consumed relatively easily, we just want to create something that can be enjoyed and kept for reference.

In A Lonely Place. Photography by Nicholai Fischer with Jason Hughes as Fashion Editor. .
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In the tricky world of magazine publishing, b Magazine offers a welcome antidote to the over saturation of information on the market, which has led to a dilution of intelligent and informed journalism. It challenges the way we consume, interspersing inspired wisdom with intuitive photography within the traditional format of a fashion and lifestyle title. I'm without doubt that your coffee table or book shelf will be a better place with the addition of this publication so please do pick up a copy next week.