The Documentary And A Dream SS11

As previously noted, J. LIndeberg's The Documentary and A Dream biannual book was borne out of the desire to tell the complete story of the brand and share their thoughts and values on a level beyond commercial aspects of marketing principles. Each season creatives from various disciplines are invited to freely interpret the seasonal collection and capture a particular theme within the spirit of J. Lindeberg. Now in its fourth season, the SS11 edition explores the passion to master a craft, be it creating an exquisitely cut suit, building the ultimate surfboard or focusing to become the number one athlete.

The talented group of photographers, artists, writers, illustrators and stylists that joined Art Director  Jörgen Ringstrand for this season include Olivier Zahhm, Andreas Sjödin, Julia and Hannes Hetta, Skye Parrot, Carl-Johan Paulin and Andreas Carlsbecker to name but a few. On the day of its release and before J. Lindeberg's London showroom opened its doors for a celebratory launch, we caught up with Jörgen Ringstrand to talk about the inception and continued evolution of this inspiring read...

SS: What were your inspirations, your dreams and the driving catalyst behind launching The Documentary and A Dream?

Jörgen Ringstrand: I work with J.Lindeberg and also run my creative agency R67Kreative, it was a fantastic moment when together with the Global Brand Director at J.Lindeberg, Stefan Engström ,we decided to start the process of creating the Biannual Book. When we started we did not know where we were heading, both Stefan and I like to work very fast and are passionate about what we do. There were no customers surveys or meetings with marketing departments, we both love books that are made with passion, love, great printing, great binding and great contributors. We just wanted to do something that reflects our minds and the world of J.Lindeberg.

SS: For me, it is a publication which weaves together people, imagery, history, newness and takes great pleasure in information exchange and learning. What does The Documentary and A Dream mean to J Lindeberg and to you personally?

Jörgen Ringstrand: For me it’s a fantastic way of together, with Stefan Engström at J.Lindeberg, to create a book with people and thoughts that inspire us. Both of us love books and with the Biannual Book we also produce it with highest quality and craftsmanship. All the bookbinding is made by hand, it’s a privilege in this time to do a book like this, especially with people focusing online or digitally. For J.Lindeberg it is a way of doing something that shows the world around the brand. The book is not made with any business or commercial goals in mind but made from a strong interest of creating a long lasting high quality product, much like the J.Lindeberg clothes.

SS: Each issue is concentrated around one key idea – a timeless theme that in various ways touches all those working in the creative fields regardless of age, cultural background or social status. This latest issue explores the world of craftsmanship and you shine the spotlight on varied individuals from an aged surfer to a jazz musician, a Russian poet to a tailor. What does the word craftsmanship mean to you?

Jörgen Ringstrand: It is someone who lives through their work.

SS: Could you talk us through a few of your favourite features within the issue and the stories behind them?

Jörgen Ringstrand: All are my favourite, I have put a lot of effort into them all for them to become true.

SS: Is there anything that you are particularly pleased with or excited to show?

Jörgen Ringstrand: I think it’s nice to have Olivier on board and he will also contribute on the next with a great feature we are working on right now.

SS: The contributors list is an impressive one, Olivier Zahm, Andreas Sjödin, Julia Hetta to name but a few. How do you source people to become involved in the project? What is the dynamic of the working relationship with them?

Jörgen Ringstrand:Most of the people I have followed for sometime time and seen their work and way of visualizing things. I contact then with some ideas and then we together we work out the final story. Most of the work we do is over emails which I love. I love to have that exchange of ideas and thoughts before we meet in person.

SS: In terms of contributors, is there anyone in particular that you'd like to work with the future?

Jörgen Ringstrand: I don’t really plan like that, I haven’t got anyone in mind that I am trying to catch. It is something that happens more organically

SS: Finally, how would you like to see The Documentary and a dream evolve over the coming seasons?

Jörgen Ringstrand: I would like it to be a book which reflects the mood and minds of the people involved. A book that gives creative freedom to the contributors in a large sized format, made with passion and love, to be able show their work in a great context.

----------

Now that the hangover sets in and memories of toasting the book thump around my brain, I'm fully aware that the book has now been released. This fourth edition is now available to view at J. Lindeberg stores and online. The narrative it weaves is one that expands way beyond the realms of the standard look book and runway views we are all accustomed to seeing. Throughout the book you are treated to inspiring art works, collages, interviews and an array of wonderful imagery. However, before you go and thumb through it I'd like to share a few of my favourite pages with you.  

All book images courtesy of J. Lindeberg.

Time to Slack

T&F Slack's five eyelet Derby used by Matthew Miller during Menswear Day.

Over the course of the last few months I have found myself admiring a kaleidoscope of brogues and derby shoes but have failed to note down the name of their maker. Blog readers, I have failed you but I will now make amends. The first time I came across the brand, T&F Slack Shoemakers was during the most recent, hectic Menswear Day as Matthew Miller collaborated with the Notting Hill based shoemaker to stunning effect. Now, I really should have followed up with the brand the moment my heart returned to its natural beat after the strain of fashion month but the name was lost somewhere in the deepest, darkest corner of my blogging mind. More recently I have seen the designs on the shop floor at both Selfridges and Liberty's and the final nudge to feature the SS11 collection came from Kuni Awai, who is undertaking an ongoing collaboration with the label. No more slacking on this brand.

Now, to the best of my knowledge, T&F Slack Shoemakers is the only shoe brand able to offer classic English styles made in the heart of Notting Hill. In a bit to revive shoe manufacturing in London, the brand began crafting shoes in their own five hundred square foot factory in  March 2008. Today, they make about one hundred and fifty pairs per month.  For SS11, the collection consists of an impressive array of vibrant Derby with two sole options, either colourful lightweight micro soles or stitched leather soles, Oxford Brogues fit for any playful Sunday Best outfit, loafers and even a punch Derby for an extra statement of lively intent. All are perfect to add a splash of vibrant colour to an outfit. I am reminded of a famous Matisse quote, "With colour one obtains an energy that seems to stem from witchcraft."  There is certainly some truth in this observation from the great master. Even if the weather is dark and gloomy, wearing colour rather than blending in with the clouds is much better. Escapism even. A splash of colour can really help lift your mood so why not start with your feet?

Oxford Brogue

 Derby Five

 Punch Derby

Derby Two.

Over the course of the coming weeks I will certainly pay a visit to T and F Slack's Notting Hill shop where in addition to showcasing their fine collection of men and women's crafted English styles, they offer a unique made to order offering. The service takes up to three weeks and designs are available in a wide range of colours and materials. Their highly skilled craftspeople, both within their Notting Hill factory and East London workshop keep the art of British shoemaking alive and well in London and I cannot wait to pay them a visit.

Private White V.C Pop Up

Private White V.C returns to London

One of the most intriguing launches of the past twelve months was Private White V.C which we first introduced to you all back in October and have kept an interested eye on ever since. Now, for a period of eight weeks, the label returns to London to present its new SS11 range with an exclusive pop-up boutique at 47 Lamb's Conduit Street. This weekend, I finally got the chance to take a closer look at the sophomore collection whilst taking a stroll down my favourite street.

As you should all know by now, Private White V.C comes from the very heart of Cooper and Stollbrand, the largest independent clothing manufacturer in the UK. It serves as a reminder that they have and hopefully will always continue to make fantastic, market leading garments using the finest British materials and craftsmen. Once again the collection consists of classic, timeless and traditional pieces that Jack and his contemporaries could and would wear day in and day our, in work, at home and at play. However, designed by the former head of Dunhill menswear Nick Ashley, the latest range has been developed to meet the needs of the contemporary man who is after both style and added functionality. Highlights include the new lightweight double breasted belted trench which is a natural run on from the hugely popular AW10 Great Coat and the navy SB4 jacket which is a sharper take on the classic mac. The Flight Jacket, a collaboration with Eastman Leathers is also worthy of note. It has all the traditional features of the original A-1 Flight Jacket worn by aviation heroes dating back to the late 1920's. However, the item that I have my eye on is the Combat Blazer in forest green which comes in a range of wax finishes. Of course, I could wax lyrical about the latest collection and store but I'd only bore you, the best way to get a feel of the place is to explore it...

A look around the transformed pop up store space on 47 Lamb's Conduit Street.  

Here's hoping that Private White V.C will continue to offer great value to its customers who desire the finest and most durable clothing which is hand crafted from one of the UK’s eldest and most experienced factories.

E. Tautz Illustrated

E. Tautz' salon style presentation was one of the real highlights of London Fashion Week. The Navy Board Rooms were the perfect setting for this particular Savile Row favourite: a highly intimate, personal service whereby Patrick Grant introduced each look in the type of wonderfully engaging manner that few can. So, when we were approached by a talented illustrator, Joseph Turvey, who shared our enthusiasm for the award winning designer's collection, we could not resist reliving those  special September Menswear Day moments with him.

For SS11 the House of Tautz continued to present a modern and elegant aesthetic all the while fondly glancing back in time to a particularly dapper moment of men's dress. Grant is, justifiably, extremely proud about Tautz' heritage and allows it to colour what the House does today. The past is very much there to guide what he does in the present. However, he does not go in for excessive nostalgia and always provides a perfectly cut balance. This season, he opted to cut their cloth with a modish sharpness in crisp wool fresco's, hopsacks in wool and silk, a selection of crisp linens and stiff drills. Mixed with the usual British sporstwear, there were hints of Brighton Rock with the clipped drainpipes, full collared button downs, pin tight knots and Harrington coats. All the while reminding us of the great British seaside.

Here, Turvey's illustrations breathe fresh life in to favourite looks and give us reason to be further excited for the coming season...

 

All illustrations by Joseph Turvey

Casely-Hayford SS11: The Light Through the Darkness

Much of the last twelve months have whizzed right by me, a great deal has been forgotten for one reason or another. There have, however, been a few moments which have seen the dazzlingly fast rotating clock hands stop completely, allowing me ample opportunity to soak up the scene before me. Thankfully time was stopped during my visit to the SS11 Showroom Next Door and my heart still skips a beat or two as memories of Casely-Hayford's The Light Through the Darkness fills my memory. Having enthused over the collection back in September, it is my absolute pleasure to offer first sight of the look book with you...

Cover image; Circeo washed shirt jacket in deep red cotton, Azuil collarless shirt in white Panama cotton, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey.

Casely-Hayford's fifth collection consolidates their now signature style of relaxed masculine proportions, fused with an injection of London's cocktail of youth culture. Since its inception, the label has explored the intriguing duality of English sartorialism and British anarchy but now shapes a unique aesthetic that sees the emergence of the 'Sartorial Nomad' from the shadows of the darkened sensibility of their Afro Punk of the season before. Here, Casely-Hayford visit the the idea of the transcultural traveler, whose identity is an amalgamation of the many countries and influences that once or now surround him.

Looking at this collection, I'm reminded of the photography of Etienne Dehau. In his book about the Bedouin tribes and nomadic peoples of Arabia, the photographer took us to the heart of this immense region, tracking the ancient incense route and the nomadic Bedouins. Dehau's wonderful photographs illustrated the culture of these Arabs – a word that originally meant ‘people of the desert’ – as they move from camp to camp within a land that is both hostile and overwhelming. For SS11, Casely-Hayford have reimagined the nomad. The taletend design duo turn to the purity and tranquil energy of the Bedouin nomad in order to seek out something real and something minimal negating the excess so prevalent during the last decade. The Light Through the Darkness communicates ideas of a rebirth for a new decade. There is a discordant synergy is brought to the forefront of the collection as exquisite tailoring is worn over nomadic white shirts, referencing looks often seen in the confluence of London's East End. Here, the cut is unrestrictive and loose yet it still manages to remain masculine and athletic. Fabrics are natural, colours earthy and the silhouette voluminous but minimal...

Left; Moonstone jacket in grey tarmac wool, Lapis pale grey herringbone drawstring jacket, Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey, Brett olive jersey l/s t shirt and Turbeville allotment creeper. 

Right; Luxor stone cotton workwear jacket with turned black hem and Cinnabar navy ribbed cotton fatigue pants.

 

Left; Volga gathered coat in greige wool,  Azul white Panama cotton collarless shirt, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Turbeville allotment creeper. 

Right; Circeo washed shirt jacket in grey/check reverse cotton, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Aldous 2SB, greige wool jacket, Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt. Algonquin tailored track pants in Morning stripe jersey and Isherwood brown leather sandals. 

Right; Marmor marine cotton knit cardigan with Touareg pattern front, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton, Algonquin Morning stripe tailored track pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Arandis grey ribbed cotton waistcoat, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Right; Tropf bi-colour minimal Mac, Belgris tapered natural linen pants and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy/black cotton,  Afyon scoop neck stone crushed jersey t-shirt, Cinnabar stone ribbed cotton fatigue pants.

Right; Ventura coat in stone crushed jersey, Cato natural linen curved pocket waistcoat, Anatol white cotton Chino, Alba Henley in Touareg pattern cotton and Isherwood brown leather sandals.

Left; Tourmaline blousen double jacket in navy in khaki cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Right; Belvoir navy canvas reversible coat, Agra bellows pocket waistcoat in navy organic cotton, Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Left; Tardos long shirt in white self-stripe twill, Cosmic white cotton laced Punk Nomad trouser and Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Right; Aldous 2SB greige wool jacket, Ambar blue/white cotton wrap shirt, Basalto flat front trouser in greige wool and Bentley brown leather quilted slipper. 

Quartz black leather Casely-Hayford for John Moore Ghillie brothelcreeper.

Look book credits
Photography: Katinka Herbert
Photography assistant: Christopher Kennedy
Art direction: Casely-Hayford & Son
Model: Yussef Yu, Fine Artist.

__________

Omar Kashoura's New Ease

Although fashion tends not to acknowledge it, there is a make do and mend attitude for the mere mortal consumers amongst us. Omar Kashoura decided to channel the attitude of the ration book dictacted spirit of 1940s which has lurked in the shadows subsequent decades coming to the fore when times get tough. When pockets are empty and wallets are slim, there tends to be a reversion to all things classic and this collection sees Kashoura outfit a self sufficient city sartorialist. Drawing inspiration from his own city lifestyle, he creates a collection designed for every day survival in an unforgiving metropolis. Throughout he revisits the idea of outfitting the modern gentleman and has created a collection that adapts with the demanding lifestyle of the wearer given the current economic woes. SS11 is a collection of basics that every man needs in his wardrobe. However, despite the austerity of the climate, Kashoura chose to invest in beautiful fabrications to create a featherlight yet versatile and highly practical collection. Knitwear and jerseys are aching to be touched. Having had the opportunity to marvel at the line in person a few times, I long for the opportunity to snap up a few pieces for myself. In the meantime, I am pleased to share the SS11 look book with you...

Look Book Credits... Styling by Julian Ganio. Grooming by Ian Jeffries. Photography by Alex Klesta. Shoes by Edward Green.

The Alex Klesta shot look book showcases Kashoura's self sufficient city sartorialist perfectly. Here is a man that is still making the most of the twenty four hour metropolis of the previous but now, taking the time to enjoy the changing scenery. For SS11 is all about a new elegance, a new ease.