Style Stalking...Ca

It has been far too long since we've lurked in the shadows to partake in one of our favourite past times, style stalking. The reason for the delay was finding a subject that could match our previous subject, Imelda Matt. After a few months of fruitless voyeurism we finally stumbled across an old favourite who has thankfully resurfaced on the blogosphere. Ca's previous blog, The Cablog, was a constant source of inspiration and it was a sad day when he decided to pause blogging. A number of months later and Ca has returned and we are pleased to declare that he lost none of his style. Ca is a man who knows how to use colour and play with textures to make truly wonderful, multi faceted outfits. He is a man who knows how to balance vintage, high street and labels in such a way that the admiring observer has absolutely no idea where he shops. We could wax lyrical about his style but that would only delay you from the real treat of the below visuals. Without further ado, here's the man himself introducing his diary...

"I suppose the series below is representative of my style. At least for winter here in Norway at the moment. I have always been more of an autumn/winter person in terms of clothes and fashion. The crisp cold weather makes it ideal to layer favourite pieces and bundle up. Some may find it challenging during the cold season to stay both warm and stylish, but I thing it's quite amusing. As long as you have the basics, especially quality woolen pieces, in place then I believe you can always look well put together...

All photos by my good friend Sirin Winge"

When the six day diary dropped in to our inbox our week was made. No doubt his style diary will brighten up your week too...

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Day One

A simple and casual outfit, this is how I typically look at home or school. I enjoy focusing on collar/lapel details and love to collect pins and brooches from flea markets and vintage shops. Such an easy way to add a bit of fun. These ones, however, are from a regular high street store. The moment I saw them this summer I completely fell and had to have them. Such a sucker for the nautical theme.

The jumper is from H&M, the shirt is from Zara and pins are from Accessorize, the trousers are by These Glory Days, the glasses are from Burberry and the shoes are by Massimo Dutti.

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Day Two

Another simple outfit for a regular day running errands around town. This jacket is one of my vintage gems which I waited almost three months before purchase. Warm and with the perfect fit, it's such a great piece to throw on while rushing out and about.

The hat is from H&M, the scarf is by Burberry, the jacket is a vintage Wrangler, the shirt is secondhand, the jeans are by Monkee Genes, the bag is secondhand as well and the shoes are by Vagabond.

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Day Three

Ok, so I study library science and work at an eyewear store. Sometimes I get carried away. So much for breaking down the stereotypical view on nerdy almost corporate way of dressing. But I like it and this is how I look most of the time. I try to believe that this soft floral shirt makes the look less "dusty". Anyway, the shirt reminds me of a watercolour painting and I got it dirt cheap at a secondhand store. Win win situation. If you're wondering, I am clinging onto the precious and latest issue of Monocle, one of the few magazines I actually buy.

The cardigan is from Brunns Bazaar, the shirt is secondhand, the trousers and bag are both from Zara while the bag is by Bertoni.

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Day Four

Me at my most dandy. I enjoy wearing bow ties, especially during festive Christmas season. The small leather bag around my neck is the latest obsession. Very practical to keep keys and wallet safe in place. And the coat is Lanvin for H&M, this year's winter coat purchase. The deep blue colour is wonderful. I like the long lean look and how the length makes it completely reasonable for me to make swooshing sounds while wearing it around.

The coat is from the Lanvin for H&M range, the jumper is from Gap, trousers are by Topman, the hat is from Dressman, the bowtie is H&M, the bag is from Monkee and the suspenders and shoes are both secondhand.

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Day Five

Beside collar decoration I have become fond of elbow details. This woolen/angora/cashmere mix jumper is warm, cosy and perfect for winter. Also, the colour scheme keeps the elbow patches subtle and barely noticeable. My infamous binocular bag is making an appearance here as well.

The coat is from Victor & Rolf for H&M, jumper by These Glory Days, as you can probably tell the shirt is from Burberry, trousers are by Velour, shoes from Zara and the bag is secondhand.

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Day Six

Another piece of outerwear I've found secondhand and altered at my seamstress. I like to switch between several coats during winter to keep things interesting. I find brown softer and easier to create less strict winter looks than classic black and grey.

In case you're wondering, the answer is no. I am not doing publicity for the label These Glory Days. At least not paid publicity that I know of. I have been following the label's design for a while and truly enjoy it's casual style, small sizes, simple details and finally the reasonable price level. This winter I went all out and got hold of several pieces from the autumn/winter collection. Whatever the hype, the Swedes know fashion. And as a Norwegian citizen I am making a patriotic statement for Scandinavian design. Yeah.

Final note: I am having breakfast (cranberry scones) while doing Christmas shopping here. Do forgive the silly expression.

The coat is secondhand, the hat and shirt are both from These Glory Days, the jeans are Monkee Genes and the shoes are from Zara.

All photos by Sirin Winge.
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Collaborating with Harris Tweed

Following on from lengthy visual love letter to Harris Tweed I wanted to ponder the future of the Champagne of fabrics. For me, the second collaboration with Nike merely scratches the surface of possibilities for this fabric. Having well and truly fallen for this special textile I began to ask myself what more could be done to continue its revival. I asked this very question to the director of the BBC4 series Tweed, Ian Denver, last year. His response still rings true...

Interestingly, this season sees another intriguing collaboration with the iconic 'Orb'. Harris Tweed Hebrides, the Shawbost-based company who I visited earlier this week have recently welcomed a major collaboration with high street powerhouse, Topman. The award winning company have been working closely with Topman's design team over the past year or so to create a stunning new men’s range, which extends from gloves and bow-ties to coats, trousers and jackets. The choice of tweed and the cut on the designs are exquisite and will no doubt attract a new audience. The fact that Topman are promoting the range on their US web-site as well as the UK one is great news for the fabric.

Collaboration will undoubtedly play its part in the continued revival of Harris Tweed. This season also sees Fred Perry, The North Face Purple Label and Norse Projects use the fabric in their collections. Now that you've seen exactly what makes Harris Tweed so very special, how would you like to see it used in the future? I'd like to see everyone from ASOS to Nigel Cabourn and Bill Amberg to Lou Dalton experiment with it. Which high street brands and designers would you like to see elevate this fabric further?

The craft of Cheaney lands in John Lewis

Last month I was invited to watch the Cheaney craftsmen at work at their Desborough factory, to learn more about one of England's master shoemakers and see the fruits of their collaboration with Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis. I eagerly followed and snapped away at each well honed and practiced process from start to finish in the factory that has been their home for well over two hundred years. It was a pleasure to be able to watch each stage unfold in a space that has seen the same processes come together for over two centuries. It is little wonder why Joe Casely-Hayford partnered with them once more. After the deserved success of last season’s Pukk brogues (they had this blogger's heart skipping a few beats), Casely-Hayford has taken the much appreciated design concept a step further. During my time at the factory I was able to see firsthand snapshots of the creation process for the latest Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis, Cheaney brogue; the Mentor.  I was fortunate enough to view the finishing touches being applied to one of the final dozen due to be dispatched to John Lewis. A few weeks later and as brogue is now available to purchase online and in the John Lewis flagship store, I couldn't resist taking a closer look. 

Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis Mentor Punched Oxford Shoes in black, £250.

The Mentor is a new take on the classic Oxford. Using a whole upper (one piece of leather for the whole shoe), which requires true craftsmanship, he’s collaborated with an English shoemaker to produce a new classic. It showcases sophisticated design elements including an integral punched toe cap and a chamfered Goodyear Welted sole to make a shoe both wonderfully stylish yet practical. It is a stunning shoe and once again, my heart skips a beat or two at the sight of it. Long may this collaboration continue.

Experiencing Reiss Personal Tailoring

Can you remember your first real suit? I can. I arrived in the city, shaggy haired, unskilled, full of hope but in full realisation that the task of finding employment was essential to survival. Up until then I had owned one Topman suit which had been worn to a variety of dull family extravaganza and the odd formal social function. Now, if this suit had a prime, it had certainly passed long ago. What kind of employer would trust a young man in such sartorial disarray? I needed to take well polished brogue step up on the tailoring food chain. My first executive decision to join the rat race involved a jaunt to Reiss to update my largely high street wardrobe with a premium high street suit. I opted for a simple two button black suit. I can distinctly remember feeling very special indeed when my purchase was whisked away from my uneasy grasp so that alterations could be made. The very idea of alterations was alien to me. Oh how naive I was back then. Fast forward a few years and despite a reduced need for a formal uniform I have found myself back at Reiss. Invited to take another step up on the sartorial ladder to sample their recently launched Personal Tailoring service.

The Reiss Personal Tailoring area within the flagship store.

Long time readers will know how often I have dreamed of entering the world of bespoke and made to measure suiting. The thought of having a suit made to my own personal specification and desire has appealed to me for many years. Thanks to a break to Hong Kong I entered in to this fabulously well fitted world last November. Having been warned that the experience would lead to an addiction I managed to avoid the lure, mainly through the fear of bankruptcy. Almost twelves months on and Reiss gave me the opportunity to step back in to this world to road test their latest offering.

The seventeen process beautifully presented in store.

The Reiss Personal Tailoring experience brings a much needed luxurious approach to formal menswear and has the potential to change the concept of tailoring on the high street. The comprehensive, seventeen stage made to measure service outfits the discerning, modern gentleman. Costing from £550, only £100 more than its most expensive off-the-peg suit this would be a sound investment and takes between four to six weeks from the first consultation to finished suit.

The tailor's essentials

Unless you are Antonio Bracciani (refer to issue No. 9 of Fantastic Man) an off the peg suit will rarely fit. In all likelihood, it will not fit specifically because the brand is designing for a type of man that is different from you. I frequently have issues with sleeve length and pitch while trousers are an ever present thorn in my suiting paw. The thing is most of us don't have ready to wear bodies. As you should all know, a made-to-measure is cut from an existing 'block' which is adjusted to a client's unique specification. Although Reiss are not naming names, the block has apparently been created specifically for them by a prominent Savile Row pattern cutter.

A glimpse at Reiss' block pattern.

Each of the seven stores in Britain that offer the service have personal tailoring specialists to guide you through the process. To ease matters further, my sartorial guide was Ben Leaver, Head of Personal Shopping. Before joining Reiss just over twelve months ago, Leaver worked at Kilgour. He certainly knows a thing or two about suits and was the perfect companion to walk me through the process. The real beauty of a well measured, well made suit is that it will hide any flaws and accentuate the positives. Not only will you look slimmer, taller and more pulled together, but you will move much more freely and feel totally at ease. You should feel as relaxed in it as you would in your favourite pair of jeans. To reach this level of ease, the first stage requires the tape measure. Eighteen measurements are taken with a display of consumate ease. After the measurements were recorded the real fun began as Leaver began to sketch out our shared vision of what the suit could and ultimately would be. The level of choice and degree of customisation is almost overwhelming but Leaver talked me through everything.

A selection of fabric options

To begin with there are more than forty fabric options in combinations of wool and mohair and a variety of patterns. I opted for a mohair blend in a stunning midnight navy hue. Following this decision I had the choice of three jacket styles; one button, two button and tuxedo. Then decisions had to be made on the lapel, pockets, cuff buttons, vents, trouser style, waist details, trousers bottoms, lining, undercollar melton, button holes. After succinctly describing how I wanted the suit to be and how I would wear it, Leaver was soon in perfect pitch with my way aesthetic. I left the first consultation hugely excited and in full confidence that the suit would match my high expectations.

Thread choices...

Four weeks later and I was invited back for my first fitting. After reading Simon Crompton's bespoke suit fitting experiences I recalled that one of the most important things to discern in the sleeve at this stage is its correct pitch. By this I mean how it hangs in relation to the body. If there is more material in the back of the sleeve, it hangs forward, more in the front and it will hang further back. Unlike Crompton it seems that my arm hangs a little forward. Leaver soon made the required adjustments by inserting a few pins where necessary. The odd little tweak on the length and fit were the only required amends for the jacket and the trousers only needed the smallest of adjustments. A week later and the finished suit was ready and this weekend saw me wear the suit for the very first time. Below are a few snapshots of my made to measure suit worn on a seemingly made to measure Sunday afternoon in Autumn... 

In spite of my terrible posture, the suit manages to accentuate my good points and hide the bad. Worn here with shirt by Omar Kashoura, handkerchief by Drakes, and Pukk shot brogues by Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis.

I am particularly pleased with the sleeve length. I might be showing off more cuff than most but after suffering from years of oversized sleeve lengths I positively thrive on revealing that little extra.

A closer look...Worn here with shirt by Omar Kashoura and handkerchief by Drakes.

My new favourite trousers. Finally a pair that fit! As I wanted this suit to be my ideal Sunday Best I opted to go a little higher in the leg and reveal a little more sock and shoe than I normally would. After investing so heavily in my shoe options in recent months it is only right that I wear trousers which show them off.

I take great pleasure in declaring that the finished suit is as close to perfection as I can comprehend. Whilst there is nothing that I would change, there is plenty for me to wax lyrical over. I was hugely impressed by the entire experience. A world away from my previous experiences of tailoring on the high street. As David Nicholls wrote in his piece over on the Telegraph, 'The personal tailoring range is Reiss's stab at 'affordable luxury', with the aim of enticing the more aspirant of its existing clientele as well as the recession-hit banker looking for an alternative to Savile Row.' I am quite certain that the uncompromising level of quality and service that Reiss are offering will help transform how most men buy their suits on the high street.

Illustrating Menswear Day SS11: Topman Design

Showcased in the beautiful surroundings of the Royal Opera House, Topman Design's SS11 collection took its inspiration from the bustling backstreets of Brighton. Richardson and his design team looked to the varied shop fronts and the pieces are influenced by the bounty of vinyl and vintage stores that can be found behind the facade of this classic British seaside town. The result is a collection with duality, think Brighton Rock and Quadraphenia. Super sharp tailoring combined with attention grabbing printed shirts on the one side and a selection of colourful casual wear on the other.

Now, I have to confess that there were the odd looks that left myself and Lauren scratching our heads (the high waisted belted shorts were of particular concern) but the eclectic colour palette, ranging from apple green to dark burgundy which featured throughout playful knitted sweaters and light coats were something to get excited over. The real highlight was seeing graphics of old vinyl, Polaroid cameras and foxes applied to the bold knitwear. Everyone wants a fox on their jumper, don't they?For those of you who are unsure, let Lauren Macaulay's illustrations persuade you.

Illustrations by Lauren Macaulay

The return of Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis

hat better way to start your Friday than to receive a fright from Sibling before the facilitation of further excitement with the news of the return of Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis for AW10. What more, the collection is soon to hit shop floors and has doubled in size from its preceding SS10 range. The sophomore collection of this intriguing collaboration once again celebrates true craftsmanship and home grown British manufacturing. With collaborations with remote mills in Yorkshire, tartan experts in Selkirk and respected bag maker Chapman to name but a few, the collection once again brings seemingly specialist products to a wider audience without losing any of the integrity that make their products special. The High Street just got that bit more interesting...

"Our Aw10 collection draws influence from a celebrated group of 20th century British artists, a number of whom were members of the famous St Ives Artist Colony set up in 1928. Our clothes have inherited the strong spirit of this movement and adopted the sculptor Henry Moore's idea of continuity and endurance, words which embody the ethos of this project"

Joe Casely Hayford

The debut thirty piece capsule collection for SS10 celebrated the best of authentic British design while providing a complete wardrobe, encompassing everything from jackets to shoes. It was, not surprisingly, extremely well received. AW10 sees Casely-Hayford build upon this concept of collaboration with the finest British manufacturers to crate a range of future classic designs. Following the success of last season's partnership with Barbour, the new collection includes a winter version of the extremely popular Bezique semi tailored blazer (which I of course nabbed for myself last season), and the introduction of a unique waxed cotton and Melton padded Pea Coat (as shown above). Simply stunning. With over fifty pieces in the collection and prices ranging from £60 to £400 ther really is something for every man.


The new collection sees the introduction of two key seasonal overcoats, the Pallas and the Paris. Both are derived from the classic Chesterfield Topcoat. Both are reinventions of a stalwart of a true Englishman's wardrobe. The Pallas is crafted from coarse Marling and Evans Melange tweed and has a lightweight quilted body, giving it an otherwise formal topcoat a unique and contemporary sporty twist. Meanwhile, the Paris continues the Chesterfield theme but includes new features including dropped shoulders and a matching lightweight, padded zip out gilet. The cloth has been exclusively developed and woven by the Abraham Moon mill in Yorkshire. If all that wasn't exciting enough, the season sees Joe Casely-Hayford launch his first exclusively crafted suit for the High Street. Utilising a transeasonal super 130s Savile Clifford travel worsted cloth the suit will be something every man should have hanging in his wardrobe.

The increased collection size has enabled Casely-Hayford to expand the range of accessories on offer to include two new satchels developed with the respected bag maker Chapman, who is one of only a handful heritage luggage manufacturers still producing entirely in the UK. Through joining forces with the tartan experts Lochcarron of Selkirk, Casely-Hayford has designed two new bold check lambswool and cashmere mix scarves. Regular readers will remember the effect that last seasons Pukk leather brogues had on me. Made by Cheaney, the beautiful brogues captured my imagination the moment I saw them, this seasons incarnation have had the same affect on me. The Mentor shoe, a new take on the classic Oxford, uses sophisticated design elements including an integral punched toe cap and a chamfered Goodyear Welted sole to make a shoe both wonderfully stylish yet practical. The Mentor is from Cheaney and is once again produced using traditional methods by Northampton craftsmen. Earlier this week I was fortunate enough to be invited to their Desborough factory to watch the final batch of shoes being crafted. It was an amazing experience and I'll be posting an in depth feature on the processes involved early next week. Keep your eyes peeled!

Reiss screens Elements for AW10

A still from Reiss' Elements campaign

What do you think of when you walk past Reiss? It is a store that provided my first real suit and a good number of wardrobe essentials over the years when I felt like treating myself on the high street. In truth, I've not ventured inside for some time. Business of Fashion described the high street fixture much better than I ever could; "offering beautifully designed, well-crafted clothing at an honest price, sitting somewhere in the middle of the high street and high-end, Reiss had carved out a distinctive market positioning." However, this unique value proposition was not enough. It has since become an often overlooked chain, its store quietly went about their business. Always on the periphery. No longer. This evening, Reiss screened its new film Elements and I took my seat at the preview. Directed by Jamie Morgan, Elements, provides a much needed adrenaline shot to the veins of the high street and the brand itself.

With Elements Reiss have created something truly unique to the high street.

“This season is a step forward for Reiss with a collection that we are really excited about. Showing our key products in this new and innovative way felt right for where we are going, as a way of capturing all the energy and excitement that is apparent throughout every aspect of our brand. And generally, if we ’re this excited about it, I ’m confident that our customers will be to.”

David Reiss on AW10 and the Elements campaign

The fashion film movement has undoubtedly hit the mainstream in recent seasons and I for one welcome it and am excited to see how the medium evolves. With the realisation that video has such powerful engagement potential as well as an ability to capture the sentiment of the brand, Reiss' decision to showcase the AW10 collection in this manner was a simple one.

“We set out to make art . Our objective was to create a confident and captivating visual statement for Reiss to day an d as a mark of intent for the future. The search for the new and the need to push the boundaries are key to how we stay relevant. ‘Elements’ is the nature of all Reiss stands for while clearly visualising our sexy, modernist stance.”

Andy Rogers, Brand Director

Isaac Carew stylishly facing a torrential downpour.

The creative inspiration came as the result of an artistic collaboration with Jamie Morgan, renowned photographer and film maker who founded London’s creative collective ‘Buffalo’ in the 1980’s. The ‘Buffalo’ collective changed the nature of image making through its pioneering work in The Face. Morgan's sense of exploration and creative instincts then brought him to explore moving images which translated into a series of short but beautifully emotive films as well as portrait and documentary studies. Jamie’s minimalistic and structured style epitomise this evocative and powerful narrative. With 'Elements' Morgan helps to showcase the well crafted products (particularly seen in the tailoring) while visualising the modern, sexy element of the brand. The film attempt to and succeeds at evoking a moment of fashion. Rather than emerging from a purely commercial place, this campaign focuses on creativity and helps capture the magic of fashion. Without further ado, I pass you over to the smouldering pair of Natasa Vojnovic and Isaac Carew braving the elements while joined by an array of symbolic animals...

A full web launch follows this preview in September, coinciding with the arrival of the Autumn/Winter 2010 collection in stores. I might not have popped inside a store for some time but that will change come the autumn.

An Englishman in Summer (rain)

Ever since we featured E. Tautz's SS10 collection, I have been obsessed with the idea of an Englishman abroad. Now we've entered the month of June I just had to offer up my own interpretation. Ordinarily the words 'Englishman abroad' conjure up images of over hanging beer bellies and loutish poolside shenanigans (I would know, I've been on such holidays!) but I'm thinking more about an English gentleman abroad. For SS10, E. Tautz were inspired by just this very idea but not just by any Englishman, the Duke of Windsor to be precise. When Patrick Grant and his team were creating the collection they were thinking about what the English like to do during the Summertime; they like to go to the Mediterranean, sit on beaches and wear hankies on their heads. As much as we'd like to, we can't go on holiday all of time but we can at least dress the part from time to time...

An Englishmen in Summer rain. Navy Premium Linen Regular fit jacket from Uniqlo, slim fit denim long sleeve shirt from Uniqlo +J, Gingham trousers by b store, navy socks from Uniqlo and Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis Pukk Leather Brogue Shoes. The Polka dot umbrella was found on the tube.

With the idea of an English gentleman abroad bouncing around my excited brain, I needed to breathe fresh life in to my holiday wardrobe and I picked up two pieces to help me accomplish it. A feather light linen jacket from Uniqlo and a pair of tapered gingham trousers from b Store.

A close up look at the featherlight linen jacket from Uniqlo.

The featherlight linen jacket was a real find in Uniqlo. Once in a while the Japanese retailing powerhouse releases a product that leaves me and many others foaming at the mouth. This linen jacket is one such product. The Premium Linen range is a Uniqlo collection that uses only natural and high-quality 'French linen' sourced from Northern France and Belgium. The fabric has outstanding water-absorbing/divergent properties. The fabric does not cling to your skin, and is nice and dry to the touch. The texture is filled with a pleasantly refreshing feel. The linen naturally creases as you wear the garment, one of the features that makes linen so attractive to me. I picked up the navy version but I was severely tempted to walk away with the entire range of colours and have been thinking about the blue version ever since.

Gingham trousers by b Store.

Entitled 'Benjamin Braddock', b Store's SS10 collection was inspired by Dustin Hoffman's character of The Graduate. The b store guys are purveyors of perfect basics and this collection practically bulged with enticing pieces. From sheer knits to scoop necked t-shirts to b Store's signature boxy jackets and pleated trousers, everything combined to create a modern preppy look. My own Summer ensembles tend to suffer the moment the eye gazes to the bottom half but I saw a pair of trousers that could solve my problem. b Store's 'Basil' gingham trousers are the ideal lightweight option for the warmer months. The following morning I excitedly tried on my new purchases only to be met with depressing skies. No matter I thought, must push on, stiff upper lip and all that. This is my interpretation of an Englishmen in the summer (rain)...

Navy Premium Linen Regular fit jacket from Uniqlo, African print hankie from Darkroom, slim fit denim long sleeve shirt from Uniqlo +J, Gingham trousers by b store

Navy Premium Linen Regular fit jacket from Uniqlo and Gingham trousers by b store

Gingham trousers by b store, navy socks from Uniqlo and Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis Pukk Leather Brogue Shoes.

Unfortunately, we can't be on holiday all of the time but, weather permitting, we can dress the part from time to time. Grey clouds should not stop an English Gentleman in Summer.

Brogues worth waiting for

Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis is a collaboration of great British design talent with heritage brands coming together for the high street.

Back in January you might recall that we shared an exclusive first look at Joe Casely-Hayford's collaboration with John Lewis and we followed the launch of the thirty piece capsule collection with great interest in mid March with great consumer interest. Recognised for his innovation and ability to produce definitive future classics, Casely-Hayford's range celebrates the best of British sartorialism through a series of unique collaborations with some of the UK's leading heritage companies. As I excitedly dashed from rail to rail my only problem was deciding which pieces to get and I have to confess that I actually had to leave the store for a few hours before returning with my hard earned cash and my mind made up. Highlights include a tailored wax Barbour jacket (a piece I quickly snapped up for myself), colour block contrast John Smedley knitwear and floral jersey Liberty Art fabric shirts. Shoe fiend that I am, the Pukk leather brogues made by Cheaney captured my imagination the moment I first saw them and my feet have been crying out for a pair ever since. They were however made to wait but the wait is now over...

A beautiful profile.

The shoes were supplied with alternate laces in an eye catching shade of blue. They contrast the tan leather just beautifully and I think these will be my default laces of choice.

If you are unfamiliar with Cheaney, they are classic shoe brand undergoing something of a quiet and assured metamorphosis under the ownership of William and Jonathon Church. Founded in 1886 by two brothers, Joseph and Arthur Cheaney, Cheaney quickly became one of the premier shoemakers of England. It is their ability to blend the past with the future, using the finest materials available, which has enabled Cheaney to become one of the premier producers of Goodyear welted shoes in the world today. For this collaboration they have helped create the hand punched pukk leather brogues...

A closer look at the hand punched Pukk leather toes.

They are something of great beauty and well worth a brief period of foot tapping. These brogues typify why this capsule collection is so exciting: the collaboration of great British design talent with heritage brands coming together for the high street. Over the last twelve months I have developed a passion for shoes, an addiction even. It is just impossible to resist elegant, well fitted leather creations. After meeting shoeists like the chaps at Lodger and of course Mr. Hare I had a feeling that their passion would be contagious and it certainly was. Now I have amassed a collection that I can be truly proud of and these brogues are the final piece of the footwear puzzle... for now atleast.

The final piece of my footwear puzzle...Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis Pukk Leather Brogue Shoes

Embracing the great outdoors

Last Wednesday I excitedly penned a post covering the launch of the Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis collection. After obsessing about this collaboration ever since I first heard the news late last year I was all too eager to see the thirty piece capsule collection hanging on the rails of John Lewis' flagship store on Oxford Street. Recognised for his innovation and ability to produce definitive future classics, Casely-Hayford's range celebrates the best of British sartorialism through a series of unique collaborations with some of the UK's leading heritage companies. As I excitedly dashed from rail to rail my only problem was deciding which pieces to get and I have to confess that I actually had to leave the store for a few hours before returning with my hard earned cash and my mind made up. Shoe fiend that I am, the Pukk leather brogues made by Cheaney have captured my imagination and my feet are crying out for a pair but alas these are not currently available. So, I invested my money in the wax cotton navy blazer...

A closer look at the Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis wax cotton blazer...

Exclusively designed by Joe Casely-Hayford and made by Barbour, this jacket is something special. I've not owned a Barbour jacket since I was ten. However, I can still remember the smell of that wax cotton and oil mix filling my childhood hallway and whenever I catch a whiff of my new purchase, the memories came flooding back. Dog walking, my inability to climb even the most accommodating tress and sitting in pub after pub watching my parents drink and smoke as I sipped my panda pop and played on the fruit machines. Oh happy days! You might have noticed that Barbour have enjoyed something of a resurgence in recent years. You are as likely to see a trendy London Fields lothario sporting one as you are an archetypal Sloane Ranger and I for one am pleased that the brand is becoming more widely worn and appreciated. Barbour wax cotton has long been the the quintessential fabric of a stylish outdoor life. A genuine original woven from 100% long staple cotton treated with their secret formula of oils and wax. It is quite simply one of the toughest and most durable fabrics available. I can recall a BBC documentary where a farmer abused his Barbour jacket with the sole intent of demonstrating how touch the fabric was. The jacket barely had a scratch on it even though it had been littered with a few shotgun rounds, run over and dragged throughout the countryside. In fact, many people believe that they improve with age. Now, I'll be the first to admit that I'm not much of a Great Outdoors type of guy but as I was escaping London for a quiet weekend by the Kent coast I had the perfect opportunity to give my latest investment a try...

Wax cotton navy blazer worn with white club collar shirt from Bespoken, olive jumper by Maison Martin Margiela and purple Uniqlo jeans.

Barbour clothing has been made in the north east of England and just over the borders of Scotland since 1894. If there's one feature that distinguishes Barbour jackets more than any other, it is their almost legendary durability. Barbour is a true functional classic. With a worldwide reputation as the one of the finest British country casual brands it has long been a staple of the more discerning clothing aficionados on the terraces and Sloane rangers alike. I've admired the brand for some time but not until now has one of its products appealed to my own personal taste. This blazer combines the tough outerwear that we all know and expect from Barbour with a British tailoring tradition to create a whole new silhouette.

Wax cotton navy blazer worn with white club collar shirt from Bespoken, olive green jumper from Maison Martin Margiela, purple jeans from Uniqlo and Kudu brogued boots from Lodger.

Throughout the entire thirty piece capsule collection, Joe Casely-Hayford has offered a new take on classic designs and breathed fresh life in to a selection of my favourite British heritage brands. However, it is no more obvious or successful than this wax cotton navy blazer. After a few test wears by the seaside I could not be happier with my purchase. Now, I just need to save a few pennies for those Pukk leather brogues...

Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis

Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis is now available at the Oxford Street store.

Back towards the end of January we shared an exclusive first look at Joe Casely-Hayford's collaboration with John Lewis. Ever since that post I've been eagerly awaiting the moment that the collection would be available at the Oxford Street flagship store. Last night I heard that my impatient wait was over and was treated to the news that stock was hitting the shop floor first thing in the morning. So, somewhat bleary eyed I made the trip in to town...

The collection has justifiably received a fair bit of press in recent weeks. I particularly like the above look from Esquire which features two of my favourite pieces, the mint cords and tailored Barbour jacket.

The thirty piece capsule collection, created exclusively for John Lewis, celebrates the best of British design while providing a complete wardrobe, encompassing everything from jackets to shoes. Throughout the collection, Joe Casely-Hayford is offering a new take on classic designs and achieves that rare thing in menswear: a cross generational appeal. It will undoubtedly bring new customers in to the store but at the same time, it should not alienate the store's loyal shoppers. I have to confess, this was my first visit to a John Lewis store with the sole aim of clothes shopping and I was impressed. I tend to pop in only for bedlinen and to use the facilities but this collaboration has reacquainted me with the menswear department. It was great to see the Casely-Hayford range sit alongside Fred Perry and John Smedley.

One of the most popular rails. Pastel cords and cotton sateen trousers sandwich a Liberty print shirt.

During my time at the store this afternoon I saw a variety of men and women admiring the designs and buying the odd thing. The playful Spring pastel cords and cotton sateen trousers seemed particularly popular and quite right too! My own personal highlights include the tailored wax Barbour jacket, colour block contrast John Smedley knitwear and the floral jersey Liberty print fabric shirts. However, shoe fiend that I am, the Pukk leather brogues made by Cheaney have captured my imagination and my feet are crying out for a pair. However, the shoes are not yet available so they'll have to wait. I'll have to be quick though because they are initially limited to a mere thirty pairs. Having spent an hour or so marveling at the designs I've got some decisions to make before I venture back to John Lewis armed with my battered debit card. In the meantime, I will feast over the below selection of images and scratch my imaginary beard...

The extremely well tailored Barbour jacket.

I've talked about my desire to experiment with florals for SS10, there are a number of interesting prints in this collection.

One of the colour block contrast knitwear pieces made by John Smedley.

A pair of raw selvage jeans

With thoughts of sunshine and a beach holiday filling my thoughts the release of this thirty piece capsule collection is timely. My suitcase could certainly do with the pastel cords and a couple of knits. With prices ranging between £60 and £399 there really is something for everyone. While it will undoubtedly appeal to a more fashion conscious man it still looks at home in the John Lewis store. Joe Casely-Hayford for John Lewis will certainly see fashion savvy shoppers reassess their perceptions of middle England's favourite department store. For those of you living outside of London the collection will soon be available in other branches and if you prefer to shop from the comfort of your sofa then the collection be available online from tomorrow.