Private White V.C Pop Up

Private White V.C returns to London

One of the most intriguing launches of the past twelve months was Private White V.C which we first introduced to you all back in October and have kept an interested eye on ever since. Now, for a period of eight weeks, the label returns to London to present its new SS11 range with an exclusive pop-up boutique at 47 Lamb's Conduit Street. This weekend, I finally got the chance to take a closer look at the sophomore collection whilst taking a stroll down my favourite street.

As you should all know by now, Private White V.C comes from the very heart of Cooper and Stollbrand, the largest independent clothing manufacturer in the UK. It serves as a reminder that they have and hopefully will always continue to make fantastic, market leading garments using the finest British materials and craftsmen. Once again the collection consists of classic, timeless and traditional pieces that Jack and his contemporaries could and would wear day in and day our, in work, at home and at play. However, designed by the former head of Dunhill menswear Nick Ashley, the latest range has been developed to meet the needs of the contemporary man who is after both style and added functionality. Highlights include the new lightweight double breasted belted trench which is a natural run on from the hugely popular AW10 Great Coat and the navy SB4 jacket which is a sharper take on the classic mac. The Flight Jacket, a collaboration with Eastman Leathers is also worthy of note. It has all the traditional features of the original A-1 Flight Jacket worn by aviation heroes dating back to the late 1920's. However, the item that I have my eye on is the Combat Blazer in forest green which comes in a range of wax finishes. Of course, I could wax lyrical about the latest collection and store but I'd only bore you, the best way to get a feel of the place is to explore it...

A look around the transformed pop up store space on 47 Lamb's Conduit Street.  

Here's hoping that Private White V.C will continue to offer great value to its customers who desire the finest and most durable clothing which is hand crafted from one of the UK’s eldest and most experienced factories.

Anglo Sky

Cobalt blue braided leather belt by Anglo in front of a blue sky.

Have you noticed how the mood lifts the moment that blanket of winter grey doom and gloom lifts and is replaced by a surrounding of blue? The last few days have seen nothing but hazy sunshine and near cloudless skies and everyone seems happier for it. I'm certianly in the mood to celebrate the arrival of warmer days. Yesterday, this cheer took me for a stroll down one of my favourite London streets, Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury, where I could not resist the retail allure of Darkroom. Since opening its doors in late 2009, I've popped in at every opportunity and often walked away with a little something. This concept store comprises of a curated mix of interior and fashion accessories alongside regular art and sculpture exhibitions which combine to continually pique interest. My latest visit was timely as they had just taken receipt of a delivery of colourful braided belts from Anglo.

Now, Anglo Leathercraft's belts and bags are all made in England using the finest and most intricate leather working techniques. The British brand has amassed quite a following in Japan, yet are little known in the UK. Darkroom is helping to change that though and the latest collection of brightly coloured braided leather accessories are perfect for the warmer months. So perfect in fact that I could not resist the cobalt blue option.

"Blue days all of them gone, nothing but blue skies from now on."

Ella Fitzgerald - Blue Skies.

The Sea Baron

The latest addition to my wardrobe.

Shopping and food are two great obsessions. During my time in Reykjavik, despite a busy schedule of tourist jaunts, studio visits and evening shows, there were numerous opportunities to explore what the city had to offer from a retail and stomach point of view. Two highlights were KronKron and the The Sea Baron. The two combined when I wore my store purchase as I slurped over the tastiest soup imaginable. Heaven.

The first Kronkron store opened its doors in 2004 and it has since evolved in to the retail destination of the city. Run by the lovely husband and wife duo, Hugrun Arnadottir and Magni Thorsteinsson, the store started out with a few up and coming designers including the likes of KTZ, Marjan Pejoski and the Danish brand Wood Wood. It quickly grew and took aboard more labels such as Eley Kishimoto, Roksanda Illincic and Henrik Vibskov. By 2006, the concept had outgrew its cosy space and moved to a much larger space on Laugavegur 63. Today, the space is a fun mixture of established and emerging designers. The offering is a cacophony of colours and styles. Both myself and Susie were like two kids in a sweet shop filled with treats and we gleefully bounced from one well stocked rail to another. Now, Susie walked away with two bags full of Kron by Kron Kron shoes and garb but I was much more reserved but equally as happy with my blue twisted Steven jumper by Velour. As with all new purchases, I wore it the very next day which saw me explore another of the city's gems in The Sea Baron.

This brightly painted turquoise fish shack sits on the harbour among Reykjavik’s fishing trawlers and whale cruisers, set against a picture postcard backdrop of snow-tipped mountains. It claims to have the best (and cheapest) lobster soup in town and I would have to agree with that. As I devoured the rich, creamy broth it was impossible not to fall for the charms of the shack. Inside, my two obsessions collided (thankfully, not literally)...

Inside The Sea Baron. Twisted blue jumper by Velour worn with Liberty print Bracknall shirt by b Store. 

Haider at Hostem

As pointed out in the recent men's issue of Interview, Haider Ackermann is having a moment. Since debuting his first collection in 2002, the design talent has boasted a small but devoted following but within the last few seasons, the larger fashion crowd has finally begun to catch on. The presentation of his womenswear pre-collection and S/S 11 menswear debut was undoubtedly a moment and I consider myself so fortunate to have witnessed it. It was a visual feast packed full of surprises. Memories of it still excite me today. Ackermann hosted a lavish evening of fashion, performance and celebration in the deserted Palazzo Corsini on the edge of the Arno river in Florence. In a wonderfully unique combination of the baroque surroundings and the true bohemian spirit of Haider, guests enjoyed a champagne reception and exotic fruits, followed by a piano concert and then fashion parade in a chandelier lit courtyard.

Entitled “A Carte Blanche named "Opium", the spectacular showcase was a romantic homage to a travelling woman and her man alone in the deserted Palazzo, channeling a gypsy spirit of North Africa. The menswear itself was a complete surprise. With a womenswear line known for sensual, attenuated androgyny we expected more of the same for his debut menswear offering. Instead we were treated to an array of embroidered textiles and textures reminiscent of a grungier Dries Van Noten. With so much of fashion shifting towards a form of minimalism, Haider Ackermann's embroidery-encrusted jackets and patched jacquards were a pleasant surprise. Ackermann used fabrics and textiles that I wanted to reach out, manhandle and steal. Despite being universally applauded, in December the in demand designer announced that he would not produce another collection until he felt suitably compelled.'Creativity cannot be forced into a time frame' he uttered and now...we wait longingly for the next instalment. However, as we (im)patiently wait we can, thanks to a small selection of key stores, buy in to Haider Ackerman's male wardrobe. Earlier this week I popped in to Hostem as this enclave on Shoreditch’s Redchurch Street now boasts a well selected rail of the designer's debut. It was great to take a closer look at the collection to remind myself that I for one would like to join Ackermann's nomadic tribe...

Just a few of the pieces that caught my wanting eye inside Hostem.

Having been fortunate enough to watch the debut presentation in person, it was an absolute pleasure to inspect the finished designs on the shop floor.

b Store loves Liberty

Both of us at Style Salvage have a soft spot for this particular homely department store and the fabric it is famous for. In 1875 Sir Arthur Lasenby Liberty opened his first shop on Regent Street with merely three employees, where he sold ornaments, fabrics, antiques and artifacts from Japan and the Far East. The store became the most fashionable place to shop in London and iconic Liberty fabrics were used for both clothing and furnishings. Its clientele was exotic and included famous members of the Pre-Raphaelite movement. Proust bought his ties there and Gilbert and Sullivan dressed their casts in its fabrics. Liberty soon become famous for its prints and textiles and by the 20th century Liberty fabrics were used by great designers like Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent, Cacharel, Jean Muir and Paul Smith to name but a few.

Designers have always been inspired by Liberty's ever growing archive of prints. Last year alone, the venerable department store launched a number of interesting collaborations, from affordable florals at Target to shoes by Repetto, Nike Dunks adorned with florals and luggage by Merci. With an archive that is one hundred and thirty five years old, there is plenty to excite and inspire. The latest to be inspired is b store. In an exciting collaboration, the design and textile forces behind two of our favourite stores have combined to create a truly covetable capsule collection that celebrates some of the finest prints on offer, including the much loved pepper print. Having recently breathed fresh life in to heritage label, Baracuta in a range of Harringtons and trousers, now b store have reimagined the use of florals in menswear. Here, while showcasing the Jason Hughes styled and Laurence Ellis shot look book, we talk to b store's very own Matthew Murphy to learn about his love of Liberty, discuss the retail landscape in the capital and find out how the Savile Row store will blow out ten candles in a series of events throughout the year...

SS: How did this collaboration with Liberty arise and how did it evolve in to the collection we see today?

Matthew Murphy: The project stemmed from our relationship with Stephen Ayres, Liberty's Menswear Buying Director. We have known Stephen since he worked at Selfridges and when he moved to Liberty he asked us whether we could work together on a project. As the store is in close vicinity with ours and with us working with Selfrigdes and our projects with Dover Street Market, central London is pretty covered in terms of stockists but we still wanted to create something together. We have always loved the heritage of Liberty fabrics and we can up with the idea of working on a capsule collection using these great fabrics. b store loves Liberty. It is not really a collaboration as such because of course, anyone can buy the fabrics wholesale but we wanted a special celebration of these great fabrics. We put the collection together and showed Stephen and he loved it. Initially, Liberty were going to stock it exclusively alongside us, but to get it manufactured we decided to do a bit more and the reaction internationally has been phenomenal. A number of stores that we have been working tentatively with were extremely positive. This season, with the collaborations with both Baracuta and Liberty, it feels decidedly British and the buying reaction has been great.

SS: Were the two collaborations strategically planned together or did they fall in to place?

Matthew Murphy: Ever since we started, the international opinion of b store has always been that we are a very London brand and people have always talked about it being very British. So, we planned that if we were going to collaborate we would work with British brands or brands that could really add something. Baracuta was a great one because we always found outerwear and casual jackets a difficult thing for us, we do shirts and trousers extremely well but tented to struggle with jackets. The stuff that they did with Watanabe and Margaret Howell was quite relevant to what we wanted to do so that came first. Then the Liberty opportunity arose and then everything just fell in to place. For future collaborations, we will continue down this route, find people will add to the complete look of the brand. We don't necessarily want to become a lifestyle as such but the aim is to offer a complete look. We obviously already do shoes and more recently accessories with Kuni (Awai), but it would be good to work on areas that we are not so prolific in and collaborate with specialists not so much in a craft way but, working with people on their signature items. I quite like the idea of working with brands that have become old, stuffy or slightly naff and tweaking them for the modern market.

SS: The archive of Liberty prints must be huge. What was starting point?

Matthew Murphy: We wanted a floral first and foremost because we were feeling that for the collection anyway which is why this always felt like a natural collaboration as they are known for their floral prints. Originally, we wanted to use some of the archive and heritage prints but it just wasn't possible in this instance. The archive prints are almost under lock and key, there are licensing agreements and cost issues so it is lengthy process. For the purposes of this happen, we wanted to make it as simple as possible but still used some amazing prints. It was the late sixties and early seventies prints that really inspired us. For example, the pepper print was designed in 1974/5 so there is still some history to them.

SS: This was a particularly iconic era for floral prints...

Matthew Murphy: Completely. Back then, what is great about them is that there is an obvious femininity there but when you put it in a shirt they feel masculine. There is such a soft feel to Liberty. As a store, it has always been my favourite department store in London. It was almost an introduction to menswear, back when I could first afford to designer clothes the menswear floor at Liberty was phenomenal. Back then they had a impressive Margaret Howell corner, a Westwood area, they had Dries (Van Noten), they were the first store to have Margiela. Fast forward to today and they have found a great niche. I think Stephen has a clear vision of what he wants the current menswear floor to be and it fits with our brand.

SS: You've had the pleasure of working alongside some of the great retail institutions of the capital...

Matthew Murphy: London is still one of the best shopping cities in the world. There might be more interesting things going on in other cities but if you want a selection then London is still the city. I'm all for teaming up and we've been fortunate to work with some great stores for example with Shop at Bluebird, with Selfridges, Dover Street Market and now Liberty. Each of the stores have strong identities and we've worked with all of them in different ways. It is amazing to think that our brand can do that, maybe the appeal is that it can fit so many different demographics and consumers. Originally, we thought that the work with Liberty would be a one off but after the success of it we began to think about working with the fabric in new ways and there is just so much creative opportunity. It can be subtle, as well as bold. For example, for SS12 we are already looking in to overdying fabrics. Then there are some bold geometric patterns from the 70s that remind me of early 90s Prada and that feels right at the moment as well. It is a great opportunity .

SS: What can you tell us about the planned launch?

Matthew Murphy: We are going to have a corner in Liberty's, put up the images and cover the walls in the pepper print. We are also going to open a pop up store in Printemps in Paris in May. Through doing this project, it has opened up opportunities. There are a million collaborations out there but if they are relevant then they work.

SS: I understand that 2011 is a big year for b store...

Matthew Murphy: It certainly is. We are ten in August and we have so many projects planned for the year to celebrate. Everything that we've planned is going under the umbrella of celebrating the store with different people, so Liberty, a roadshow with Selfridges which is pop up shop that begins in Manchester and goes to Birmingham before ending up in London, Printemps and we are working with Mr Porter online. We are also going to launch ten British products. We've approached ten British brands in categories that we are not currently involved in and these include lifestyle and fashion brands, some well known and a few which are less so. Actually there is one brand that I know you'll love, a new tie brand called Marwood. One of the key things that she does is using British lace on top of either silks or cottons to create ties and bow ties. It is beautiful. We are working with her for Spring/Summer in store but she is also going to be one of the ten. These types of projects are great because as well as keeping us creatively inspired, they are a great platform for discovering new brands and pushing them forward.

SS: In a sense, it is fitting celebration and it mirrors the core values of the b store ethos…

Matthew Murphy: Completely. It might be a bit less relevant or for difficult for us now in terms of menswear because our customers want a bit more consistency. For example, we have worked with Peter Jensen since the very beginning and we have customers who come to buy his designs, same with Stephan (Schneider) and now with Christophe (Lemaire). It is hard for us to introduce new menswear brands because there is no one we could nor would want to drop. Unfortunately we are governed by space and the fact that seventy per cent of our menswear is our own brand. This high percentage is not down to us pushing it but is down to the demand. So what we buy from these other bands is items that we wouldn't do necessarily ourselves by still feel very us, the understated luxury of Christophe or the geekyness of Peter. With these boxes filled it is difficult to bring on new labels. With regard to womenswear we have more freedom. This is why the Ten Products project is great because it allows us to bring in new names for product lines that we do not already sell.

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As the chaps celebrate their tenth anniversary in a style, you can expect to hear a lot more about b Store on the pages of this blog and beyond in the coming months. In the meantime, lets long for some sunshine and daydream about floral prints before the fruits of this collaboration hit stores next week.  

Let it rain on Mount Street

We all grumble about the wet weather but rarely do anything about it aside from getting all wet and bothered. Thankfully, in 1823, Charles Macintosh developed the process of spreading rubber onto cotton to create the worldʼs first formal waterproof fabric, signaling the arrival of the original Mackintosh coat. Since then it has dedicated itself to keep the world stylishly dry. Today, Mackintosh is a firmly established brand with an almost cult status, especially in the Japanese market. Recognised for its unique hand made authenticity, the great British label produce outerwear for a diverse range of clients in Paris, Milan and Tokyo; including high profile luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, Dior, YSL and fashion designers Erdem, Junya Watanabe and Nigel Cabourn to name but a meaty mouthful.  

Thankfully, the brand resisted temptation from Japan and has opted to open its maiden store in the aptly, drizzly British capital.  The fabulously located Mount Street store officially opens its doors this evening but I was extremely fortunate to have Daniel Dunko, UK managing director of Mackintosh Ltd, as my store guide and brand enlightener earlier this afternoon.

I could not have had a better guide to talk me through the beautiful two story space than Mackintosh's very own Daniel Dunko. As he talked me through the latest designs, I was amazed to learn that he began his working life with Mackintosh as an apprentice on the factory floor back in 1983 and has since worked his way up to the position he hold now. He has worked for Mackintosh for twenty eight years come May. Following the three year apprenticeship he then served on the Cumbernauld floor for two years before embarking on a sales and marketing position at the company, then a directorship in 1996 and he never looked back. It was an absolute pleasure to hear about Dunko's experiences right from the craftsmanship of the factory floor to buyouts and investments. Unsurprisingly, he was hugely excited by the latest development in his brand's rich history. It was contagious.  

104 Mount Street is Mackintosh's flagship store. Prior to that they have enjoyed a strong concession presence, particularly in Japan and the rest of Asia but the brand began to put the plans together for their own space two years ago. Thankfully they only had their sights on London. Previously, the only retail presence they had in the capital was a shared store with Globetrotter located in Burlington Arcade which was forced to close following changes of ownership. Soon after they decided that they needed their own flagship store and, as they are a relatively niche brand, Mayfair and Mount Street were the perfect fit.

World famous interior designers and architects Wonderwall created the two floor, 90sqm state-of-the-art store and key features include an interior in tune with the modern Mackintosh brand and is truly inspired by its British craftsmanship. The design sought to showcase the brand's rich history, fruitful archives and latest ranges in a welcoming consumer friendly environment. For me, the design highlight has to be the three display cases showing iconic pieces from the Mackintosh's history. Since its inception, the brand has always been at the forefront of outerwear design and these display cases are a welcome reminded. From the Army coat from the 1930s which was a very heavy, rubberised bonded twill, to the a Dispatch Riders coat worn in the second World War to help deliver on deliver messages to the troops via motorcycles on the front line, on to to the British Rail days and outfitting rail staff in the 70s.

Mackintosh is undoubtedly a brand of modern heritage built on true craftsmanship and a two hundred year history. If you were in any doubt, the Mount Street store gently reminds you at every turn, from  the encased vintage pieces to the feel of their latest garments which hang invitingly on hooks and rails. Every genuine Mackintosh garment is carefully hand made by skilled craftsmen who serve a three-year apprenticeship to perfect the techniques required to make a true mackintosh. With its factory in Cumbernauld, Scotland focused on hand made outerwear, Mackintosh also owns a second factory in Nelson, England producing the machine made side of its collections. The brand have sixty people in the Lancashire factory and about sixty seven in the factory in Scotland. Production wise it is similarly equally split. The Scottish factory creates all of he handmade pieces, and the factory in England concentrates on the machine work with cashmeres, wools, gabardines. I was amazed to learn that the label produce around thirty five thousand garments apiece at these pillars of British manufacturing.

In terms of design, the brand's archive pieces are hugely important and the teams in both Glasgow and Japan continue to rework, renew and reinvigorate items of yesteryear for the future generation of Mackintosh wearers. The archive is approximately five hundred pieces strong, many of which are the results of collaborations, from catwalk piece for Louis Vuitton to Balenciaga, Comme des Garcons to Yohji Yamaoto and shortly the fruits of the design partnership with Kitsune. Having had my interest in the latest collaboration piqued after the Voyageur collection received a fair amount of blog coverage in the run up Christmas, this was the first opportunity I had to see it in the cloth and I was not left disappointed.  This is a happy marriage of two like minded brands, one from a manufacturing background and one from a design perspective combining to create truly covetable outerwear. Fittingly, I was particularly taken with the London. Stunning.

The unveiling of this impressive store, coupled with the brand’s British heritage and modern cuts, truly confirms the resurgence of the brand. Mackintosh will never forget that the rubberised coat was one of the most creative and revolutionary innovations that changed the lives of so many during that era.  However, most interestingly the brand keeps evolving and offering timeless contemporay collections. Mackintosh is the original British rainwear brand, long may it continue. Let it rain.

(Pleased with myself as I managed to make it through to the end of the post without bursting in to Mark Morrisons' classic)

Travel Organised

Smythson of Bond Street is one of the UK's most revered luxury leather goods labels. Established in 1887 by Frank Smythson, an entrepreneur and inventor of the brand's signature blue Featherweight paper, Smythson's attention to detail and quality craftsmanship quickly found favor with an elite clientele. Today, the company boasts three Royal warrants and the Prime Minister's wife as Creative Director. It has always been more than a mere stationary shop. It is something of an institution on one of London's most revered retail streets. I have often walked past, peered inside and resisted temptation to venture in to this unfamiliar but fine smelling world (oh I do love the scent of leather). Thankfully, despite my nervous disposition, I am now a proud owner of a Smythson item.

This Christmas, my sister and brother-in-law have come up trumps in the gifting trumps. After being spoiled rotten in recent years, with gifts ranging from a Le Creuset pot to Bose headphones, they have excelled in both the fine art of giving and gratuitous art of spoiling. This Passport Holder comes in butter soft Nile Blue calfskin leather. It is something that I'd never buy myself but I am now so pleased that someone has. The travel organiser comes with two subtly embossed pockets for a passport and boarding pass. I no longer have an excuse for either losing or fumbling with my travel documents.

Despite being hugely comfortable in front of the television with a mind boggling amount of food this festive season, this present makes me long to travel. Here's to a jet setting 2011.

Advent - Twenty Four

Whilst nurturing some of the best menswear design talent in the capital and beyond, b store have been merging art, fashion and design seamlessly for a number of years now. With each visit to the Savile Row institution, there is the chance to discover a new designer, an exhibition, a magazine or even just a moment when you talk to them and leave with something new. You can always expect to be surprised when you visit the store. Here's what's on Matthew Murphy's Christmas list...

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FRENCH COPPER PANS BY THE PIERRE VERGNES FAMILY

I love these classic set of french copper pans made by the Pierre Vergnes Family..........perfect for oven baked ham and eggs, 'Leila's cafe' style!

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'SANDALWOOD' EAU DE COLOGNE BY SANTA MARIA NOVELLA

Most of Santa Maria Novella's cologne's are beautiful..... but I like to alternate Vetiver and Sandalwood, which is my current favourite..... The original store in Florence is amazing and is where I first fell in love with the fragrances.

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